First up is my review of the wines of the 2009 Beaujolais (BOJO) vintage based on my impressions from a series of tastings with different wine groups, and from restricting myself to drinking mainly BOJOs for a whole month .In general, wines from the vintage not only display a solid kernel of fruit with moderate acidity for balance, they also reveal a level of sophistication that I have previously never encountered in wines of this region. There was a triumvirate of great Moulin a Vents from Janodet (1989-91) , which I brought back from France on one of our vacations, but subsequently, poor vintages and a surfeit of wine in the cellar caused my interest in the region to wane. The occasional Ch. Des Jacques was as far as I got. But vintage years between 1999 and 2009 are mostly unknown to me , given that I/we shifted focus to Barolo and Brunello , and to the 2002 and 2005 vintages in Burgundy . That said, none of the wines tasted to date (with a couple of exceptions) are like the sterile, monolithic, bubble-gummy wines of the past. While this has a lot to do with most winemakers eschewing commercial yeast for natural and wild yeasts, changes in vineyard practice, later harvesting and enlightened wine-making have all converged and contributed to the uniform success of the wines in this 2009 vintage, notwithstanding the fact that some vineyards were victimized by hail damage.
There is no question that the 2009 vintage will change the way people will look at Beaujolais from now on and I strongly urge you all to begin putting aside some of these wines for the future. They could easily become the new red burgundy alternative, possibly outflanking Oregon Pinots. Some of them actually approximate a pinot noir profile (maybe Santenay or Cote Chalonnaise)
In this vintage I found the Morgon's to be uniformly superb as were the wines of Cotes de Brouilly , which were mostly understated but most age-worthy but not uniformly excellent. They are on a different plane altogether and I never thought that the wines from these two crus could be better than the wines of Moulin a Vent, as I found in this vintage.
It is exciting to see a new crop of wine makers, particularly Bouland, Burgaud, Coquelet, Lapalu and Piron, illuminating the best facets of the vintage, each in their own style. Bouland and Coquelet seem to be following the traditional path while the other 3 are not as tradition-bound. I would daresay these are the finest "young" winemakers of the region. This gang of five young turks are charging hard on the heels of the original gang of four / five (Thevenet, Lapierre, Foillard, Breton & G. Descombes) , the latter all from Morgon. Soon the field will then have to be expanded further as the winemakers of the Rhone valley and of Burgundy descend on the region ( Liger-Belair, Girardin, for example) bringing with them a different modality and approach to wine-making. Domaine Jadot, for instance, is a good example making wines with a burgundian personality using burgundian techniques. Nothing wrong with that . Their wine-making method appears to be well-suited to the wines of the commune Moulin-a-Vent.
This posting (June 2011) is a fairly comprehensive review of the Beaujolais Cru wines of the 09 vintage that I will expand as time goes on. Some village level wines are also noted : see Vionnet. The glaring exceptions in this blog are the wines of Lapierre and Breton which I will taste later and add. In my tasting notes I have skipped lingering on specific flavors and aromas that I noted in the wines, as these are quite likely rapidly mutating into newer and different aromas and tastes and thus meaningless.
MY top 10 wines as of June 2011 are:
THEVENET ---------------Morgon Vieilles Vignes & Morgon "Delys"
BOULAND ---------------- Morgon "Corcelettes"
THIVIN------------------- Cotes de Brouilly
LAPALU ------------------ Brouilly "Croix de Rameau" & Cotes de Brouilly
DIOCHON--------------- - Moulin a Vent Vieilles Vignes
PIRON ----- -------------- Morgon "Cotes de Py"
CLOS de la ROILETTE--- Fleurie
Upcoming Reviews include “ Red Bordeaux 1981 : 30 Years On" and "2008 Oregon Pinot Noirs: The Future is Now?"
(Domaine des) BILLARDS ($19)
St.Amour 88-90
Darkish color; Captivating notes of herbs and dried flowers lead to a palate that has mostly dark raspberry-tinged fruit . Very approachable, soft and slightly jammy but it is what it is– gamay! A bit flat but still liked it enough to buy a whole case to drink over the next 3-4 years.
BOULAND ($23)
Cote de Brouilly " Cuvee Melanie" 90-92+
Right from the start it behaves like a pinot noir. Nose is reserved and merely hints of minerals and some red fruits, but not strawberries. Attack is sly, and the wine shows some power rather than richness in the mid-palate but the finish has greater volume than at the start. Slightly tannic and persistent finish. Even 2 nights later the wine was fresh and had, in fact, gained amplitude. This and other CdB’s are undoubtedly going to be underrated by critics in 2009, since they have usually been taut and reserved, particularly immediately on opening. This wine could easily be stunning in a few years time. I advise stocking up on this one as well as a few others CdB’s. Patience will be rewarded. This will easily last the decade.
BOULAND ($25)
Morgon Corcelettes 92-94
Aromatically sensual with very complex notes of flowers, red fruits and minerals. Sedate and stylish on the palate, it is very well balanced with exquisite acidity. The flavors cover the range of a proverbial musical scale. It is rich yet light, soft yet taut, bright and then suddenly low-key. Terrific wine. Though built to age it is sensual and irresistable now but needs several minutes aeration to show well. Of the wines I have tasted thus far (6/11), among the top 5 wines of the vintage
.BOULAND ($25)
Morgon Delys 90-91+
I recently had the 2010 Delys (sept 2011) and wanted to compare my impressions of the wine with the 2009 when I discovered I had omitted to enter my notes for the latter. I do recall really liking the wine but not as well as the 09 Corcelettes.
BRUN (Terres Doree) (20$)
Cotes de Brouilly 87-88
I was not impressed with this at all the first night - seemed rather simple. Much better 2nd day but still a touch too jammy and , for me, alcoholic. Crushed fruit with floral elements but fruit has little savor. Missing a spark due to low minerality. Does not hold a candle to the Bouland CdB.
BRUN (Terres Doree) ($22)
Fleurie 88-89+
Much better than the Brun CdB. Hint of carbonic still, some floral hints but generally muted nose. Medium bodied with light red cherry compote with a touch of floral fragrance on the palate. On palate, definitely tannic and held back. Not very expressive. But with time, violets and kirsch liqueur emerge with time, both on nose and palate, to give the wine some complexity. Touch alcoholic (even at 12%) but that should resolve in time. Not a typical '09 since it was leaner (more dilute?) than most . and did not quite capture the vintage characteristics (IMHO). I still went ahead and added 2 more bottles to my collection to check on my fallibility.
BRUN (Terres Doree) ($24)
Moulin a Vent 89-90
Earthy pinot-like silkiness. Medium bodied with hints of candle-wax on nose and both red and black berries. Presently the wine does not sing but is better balanced than a couple of other Brun’s wines from this vintage. Structured but also giving on the palate at this stage, if not exactly sumptuous. Did not retaste but I doubt there is potential in this wine to dazzle later.
BURGAUD ($16) ($16)
Morgon Charmes 90-92.
Balanced and already delicious, it is true to its name– charming. This from 80 y.o. vines is deceptively forward. Hard to resist drinking now but will last the decade easily. Medium bodied, soft and well knit. It has great balance on a modest frame with silky texture and a persistent finish. A great value and a SLEEPER of the vintage. Bought a case. Unlike the Cote de Py (see note below), this is best drunk sooner rather than later. (update: On 2 subsequent occasions---no further evolution since last tasted ---------- truly delicious and utterly captivating; 91-92)
BURGAUD ($19)
Morgon Cote de Py 91-92
Over 2 nights it was unchanged. Minerality is this wine’s middle name , yet there is plenty of ripe fruit and it comes in waves. Excellent definition on mid palate. Raspberry flavors with a touch of verbena/mint with moderate acidity. The finish is supple and quite long.
Yet a second bottle was less good (89+) and was actually a touch on the low acid-side. Not sure why–both from same source.
Domaine CALOT ($16)
Morgon VV 85
Simple on both nose and palate. More like a regular Bojo than a Cru. Did not improve the next day. No point enumerating the particulars of the wine.
Domaine de la Grand Cour ($20)
Brouilly VV 85
An uninteresting nose which cannot be ascribed to reduction. Slightly shrill and inexpressive on palate. Like the dom. Calot wine (see above) kept searching for creamy fruit of old vines. Tried it over 2 days (always w dinner) and could not taste much improvement. Metallic aftertaste.
CHANRION ($20)
Cotes de Brouilly 90-91
A well structured wine with intense fruit and good but not stern minerality. Clearly showed good concentration of fruit but was unevolved the first day. Later, typically gamay fruit emerged , on the slightly over-ripe side but still deliciously spicy and savory , with backing by light acidity and with some tannins still to be resolved. A wine of finesse.
Was extremely impressed enough to buy a case. Not a showstopper but a winner, nonetheless. Not for long keeping, in my opinion.
CHERMETTE: I have this producer's wines under Dom VISSOUX. Mention is made of Chermette also under Vionnet.
CHEYSSON ($17)
Chiroubles 89-91
Elegant, fragrant nose. Light to medium bodied; sometimes soft and other times taut , depending on what you are eating. It is almost Italianate ( like Langhe Freisa) in flavor profile. Not your typical BOJO. Stylish and flavorful long finish. Perfect summer wine.
CHIGNARD ($18)
Fleurie Les Moriers 89-90
At first, it had the aromas of champagne Fizz and there was dissolved CO2 in the wine giving it an unusual zip. Fragrant at first with fresh red fruits and faded rose petals, but with time the fruit emerges to take center stage and it is delicious as it dances on the palate. Like fizzy red fruits with a touch of spice -- quite an unique taste . Next day, it neither improved nor declined. Not a sumptuous wine but definitely interesting.
Retasted in 2012: Very good but not special--very similar profile as previous bottle, except the feeling of fizz is gone. Austere and introspective still (90 pts)
(ANDRE) COLOGNE ($20)
Fleurie 86-88
Neither inspiring nor uninteresting. Plummy with dark cherries. Medium bodied with taut structure. Good acidity but missing the excitement of the vintage. The flavors are insipid and not very deep. Maybe another year or two will spark some hidden “interest”.
COQUELET ($24)
Chiroubles 90-91
This could be confused for a Spanish wine on the nose; ripe fruits, incense, whiff of coconut and spice. It is rich, broad and creamy. Upfront/yummy with alcohol well in balance. Just a touch more acidity and it would have been even more delicious. This is a wine to seek out in restaurants since it is drinking so well now. I doubt, Chiroubles gets much better than this. This encapsulates the sunniness of the vintage so well and best drunk over the next 3-4 years.
COQUELET ($24)
Chiroubles “Vieilles Vignes” 89-90+ Stylistically milar to the regular VV cuveé but somehow did not seem as interesting, though it was without fault. It was more reserved and that may be one reason the wine simply did not captivate. Kept searching for slightly more explosive fruit but found none. Will reserve judgement on this one for now.
DESCOMBES, George ($24)
Regnie 91-93
A fantastic nose combines graphite, violets and exotic spice that I could easily have been fooled into thinking I was about to drink a Cote Rotie. The palate was distinctly gamay, however. It was vibrant with acidity, a touch tannic still. Fullish mid-palate and delicious to the end. It was equal parts flirtatious and serious. A wine for aging. (Tasted Oct 2011)ly
DESCOMBES, George ($24)
Morgon 89-90
Not as fantastic a nose as in the Regnie, this merely hints of syrah-like spiciness but is solidly in the fruited gamay spectrum. Medium bodied with softer acidity than found in the Regnie as well as being noticeably less tannic. Lean and flavorful, this reminds me of Burgaud's Charmes in its feminine character . Lacking richness, it is all finesse, however. Lovely wine. Have not found Descombes' Morgon VV at the retail leveland looking forward to drinking/tasting it when I do. (Tasted Oct 2011).
DESCOMBES, George ($24)
Morgon VV 89-90
Quite dark with a muted nose that is a touch more burgundian than rhone like. Quite rich but lacks excitement. Nor is it particularly old-viney. Not that much better than the regular cuvee. Very good, yet was expecting more. Not tasted blind.
DESVIGNES ($19)
Morgon "Le Voute St.Vincent" 89-91
Though it was good even on the first night, it was even better the second night. Medium bodied with a streak of minerality and crisp acidity framing the delicious fruit. Slightly earthy in the finish but also some sweetness. Slightly linear with no high points. Just plain good for drinking now.
DESVIGNES ($19)
Morgon "Javernieres" 88-90
Brimming with fruited notes and some spice, the wine is fun but one-dimensional . It is hard to find fault with the wine but this is what is expected of the gamay grape. Delicious for drinking now but I am tempted to get more and cellar them for a couple of years to see if my assessment just might be wrong.
DIOCHON ($20)
Moulin a Vent VV 92-94
This is one of those wines where you just sit back and let the wine massage your palate with its unctuous black fruits, earthy undertones and spicy overtones. Lissome from start to finish: a finish that concludes emphatically the symphony of flavors that preceded. Your mind does wander into burgundy–is there a touch of volnay or is it pommard ? But the slateyness and sharper acidity is what brings it back to MAV . There is even some tannin to resolve but it was so good the first night that I did not get a chance to check on it the next day. Will last the decade.
DROUHIN ($19)
Brouilly 85-87
First day it did not even taste like it was from the 09 vintage. Vapid and aimless and, to be redundant, insipid. Better the second night, when it did not seem so commercial– now it was more suave and polished with a much needed “dryness” emerging to give balance. Yet there is simply no spark, in the form of acidity or otherwise, in the wine.
FESSY ($15)
Regnie 86-87
Blue in color and in flavor spectrum. Chewy, bold & held back for now. Taut, spicy and slightly grapey but not coarse. Reminds me of a not too serious Ribera del Duoro wine. Dry finish. Needs another year to soften and be even more delicious. Not for keeping.
FOILLARD ($29)
Morgon Cote de Py 89- 93+
In one blind tasting this was the clear winner (93+ pts). A second bottle in another tasting , however, was less impressive and I scored it only 89 pts (some liked it better)... furthermore, on the second night, it rambled into a kirsch liquer, chartreuse herbal range. Clearly weird . The only wine that showed poorly the next day. But the first bottle was WOW!! when it was rich, deeply flavored, sumptuous and chewy.
GAUTHIER (Laurent) ($15)
Morgon Cote de Py VV 86-88
Sports a very fine nose that has hints of juniper (Syrah-like), talc and “minerals”.
More grapey than most of the other Morgons this is still well balanced (12.5% alc) and recognizably gamay in its exuberance. Red fruits on the palate lead to a nice lingering finish, but overall the wine is short on depth and complexity of flavor. Nonetheless, this is a good value and best drunk over the next 2-3 years.
GIRARDIN ($20)
Moulin a Vent “Clos de la Tour” 90-91+Actually this is the wine of Dom du Bief. The wine was, presumably, not made by Girardin but he did buy the property in 2010. Along with that purchase he got the right to select and purchase 40% of the 2009 vintage (presumably wine still in barrel and not the grapes). This wine is remarkably bright and focussed, a trait also found in Giradin’s red burgundies. It had more in common with the 09 wines from Cote de Brouilly since the nose is quite reticent, the palate well structured and acidity trumping the fruit at this stage. Yet, it is irresistable now. It may not be sumptuous (see Pacalet) but it is balanced, delicious and precise. May be underestimating it. Needs 2 years.
JADOT (Ch Jacques) ($29)
Moulin a Vent “Rochgres” 91-92+
Already pinotized both on nose and palate. Dark cherries and some smoked meat. Medium bodied with heft in both mid-palate and finish. It is kissed with just the right amount of oak. And though not complex at this stage it should come out of its shell in another year or so. Impressive wine that I could be underestimating at this stage. Retasted mid 2012: Wonderful richness, spicy and an impressive broad mid palate. (92+)
Note: The regular Ch. des Jacques (85-86 pts) , on the other hand, is unusually boring and uni-dimensional. Loss of better cuvees, like this one, in the final blend may be to blame.
LAPALU ($18) Brouilly VV 87-89
LAPALU ($28) Brouilly “Croix de Rameau” 92-93
LAPALU ($25) Cotes de Brouilly 92-93
The latter two wines are outstanding. The “Croix” starts unresolved but keeps getting better with time. A few hours later the wine was oozing charm and gave seductive hints of greater complexity. On the second day it was still soft, creamy and downright delicious . Was the hit of a BOJO blind tasting.
The CdB was more serious, rhone-like , with grandeur. Explosive with flavors slightly more international inspite of some “brett”-like funky notes, which is not off-putting to me in the least.
Both are SLEEPERS of the vintage.
The regular Brouilly VV was less well put together and showed unduly firm and slightly dilute , when I was expecting something more soft and intense befitting the VV designation. Well made but just not interesting. Was tasted separately on another occasion from the previous two.
Th. LIGER-BELAIR ( $29)
Moulin a Vent VV 90-92
"Pinotized” even at this early stage. The oak overtones in the wines luckily mostly serve as accompaniment to the concentrated fruit and are well integrated . Even then it is slightly “international” . Earthy, fullish and slightly heavy on palate. But it is a style that will appeal to most- - close to being over the top but still managing to pull back from being ponderous. A delicious wine that will repay keeping .
PACALET ($19)
Moulin a Vent 89-91
This is gamay at its hedonistic best. Nose and palate are both brimming with explosive fruit, red and black. Palate is soft and upfront and sumptuous. Low acidity and restrained tannins along with a distinct lack of structure (loose-knit) makes this is an excellent restaurant wine . Best consumed over the next 2 to 4 years (2013-2015). Drunk alongside the Girardin MAV this was the complete opposite. If the Girardin is Left bank Bordeaux this is Right bank Pomerol.
PIRON (Dominique) ($18)
Brouilly 89-90+
Lovely label. There is considerable reduction on the nose , alleviated somewhat by decanting. On the palate the wine had more of a CdB minerality, structure and reserve with excellent cranberry-like acidity and and introverted personality. Next day, positive development led to a wine that was extremely enjoyable but not in a hedonistic sense since the framework of the wine was still taut. Yet, the aromatics and palate are nowhere close to showing their best and when they do I expect this wine to be racy and suave.
PIRON (Dominique) $25
Morgon Cote de Py 92-93
Deep garnet with a complex nose of earth, spice and red (touch of strawberry) fruits. Immediately accessible with almost pinot (Cote-Chalonnaise ?)-like profile and finesse. Absolutely stunning with a lip smacking fairly long finish. Palate juxtaposes sweet fruit with a crisp layer of minerality. Balanced even at 13.5% alcohol. If the promise of complexity to come, which I think I detect, is achieved this could very well score higher. A SLEEPER of the vintage for me along with Lapalu’s Brouilly “Croix de Rameau” and Burgaud’s Morgon “Charmes”. Love the wine and the modern label as well. Unfortunately available only on the west coast at the present time (6/2011)
PIRON-LAMELOISE ($20)
Chenas Quartz 88-90
On the first day this wine was completely shut down . At this stage it was easy to be dismissive of its potential or its drinkability, as it also seemed alcoholic. Next day the profile of the wine was totally different–it was still steely with a mineral undercurrent but the fruit density was more apparent. It showed better balance, was streamlined and finished with a bright zing which was smoothed out by food. Very good.
RAOUSSET ($18)
Morgon Douby 90-92+
Has a wonderful nose that puts you in mind of burgundy. Serious stuff, this. Fairly open and there is much complexity (for gamay) on the nose and a palate that does not disappoint. Very well balanced and already delicious. Tasted alongside the Dom.Rochette Morgon Micouds I preferred it of the two. It had everything the other had but also had an extra dimension of sensuality.
Dom. ROCHETTE ($18)
Morgon Cote de Py 85
Zin like with strawberry flavors. Reduced . Dilute and lacks interest unlike the domaine’s CdB or the Morgon Micouds . Need to retaste since this ought to be at least at the level of the Cote de Brouilly (see below)
Dom. ROCHETTE($17.50)
Cotes de Brouilly 89-91
Much more focused and interesting than the Brun CdB which was tasted along with it. Grip and balance . Medium bodied, minerally with cranberry-like acidity. Intellectual BOJO at the present time but has promise of delivering hedonistic pleasure in 2-3 years as well.
Dom.ROCHETTE ($15)
Morgon Micouds 90-91
A nose that hints of crushed red fruit, some evergreen and some tropical fruit as well.
Unctuous on entry (after 10 minutes of airing) with ripe but restrained fruit. Forward and delicious. Just the right amount of acidity to keep the ripeness in check. So much better than their more famous Cote de Py. This rates to be a Fine Value
Clos de ROILETTE ($20)
Fleurie 89-91
Ripe, intense and deliciously upfront, wandering in and out of pinot camouflage. Think Savigny les Beaune. Next day it gains intensity and is slightly pinotized. Long and delicious with good depth of flavor and some fragrance . Lovely right now (w decanting) it might repay aging. But, I would drink now rather than later.
Clos de la ROILETTE ($23)
Fleurie Cuvee Tardive 89-90
Not as upfront as the regular cuvee. Blueberries and blackberry fruits on the nose, some spice but, all in all, a rather shy wine. Did not feel this would “pinotize” like the regular cuveé. Next night, still not revealing but clearly all the components have not knit as it still stays firm and serious rather than exuberant. I do not think this is better than the regular cuveé as it ought to be. In fact, slight edge to the regular bottling.
RONTETS ($29)
St. Amour 90-91
Palish color; wild strawberries dominate the nose; focussed , delicious, as well as supple with good density, it was a group favorite in a tasting of 14 other cru beaujolais ---not surprising since it had a sweetness to the fruit; finishes soft with a touch of fragrance. Has depth and flavor intensity to keep at least another 5-7 years. Should gain complexity in a few years. I prefer this to the Dom. des Billards St.Amour . It is unusually elegant for a Saint Amour, particularly with a listed 14% alcohol
Pierre SAVOY ($16)
Morgon Cote de Py 86-87
Classic (Duboeuf-like, that is) Gamay color w purple edges. Compote of fruits sans the bubblegum---very direct and no fuss. Very refreshing on entry with thirst quenching flavors.
medium bodied, chunky and fruity. Delicious drunk slightly chilled. Not evocative of the special vineyard site "Cote de Py" but plain good cru beaujolais at a fair price.
Michel TETE ($23)
Julienas "Prestige" 90-92
Nicely delineated fruit with a good zip of acidity . Very structured for a Julienas, it is built to last. Has some syrah-like spiciness. Bottle was so SPLENDID that it was hard to set it aside for tasting another day. This combines savor with power. It is a wine to lay down even though it is so easy to drink now. Easily the best offering one could expect from the Julienas Cru.
THEVENET ($32)
Morgon Le Delys 91-93
This is a wine built to win tastings. Fruit is extremely ripe with a rich and dense core. It is like, wow!! But then when compared with the Chignard Fleurie (which was served at the same time), its low acidity was apparent and, at the present time, shows Rioja like aromatics. Flashy and a wine to enjoy now. Track record at this winery suggests that inspite of its low acidity, it should be good for another 7 to 10 years. I would wager that the 2010 vintage of this wine is going to turn out to be a stunner.
THEVENET ($32)
Morgon VV 95+
This wine can be best described succinctly: You know you are drinking Beaujolais BUT your palate and mind are telling you that it may be a fine Cote Rotie or a superb JL Chave "Saint Joseph" (baby Hermitage). Seamlessly integrated fruit and tannin, balanced by just the right amount of acidity gives this wine a nearly flawless profile. On the ethereal side, with no vulgar notes of cola, burnt vanilla or cherry soda. What is present is a complex melange of fruits, both red and black, with some earthiness and leather notes. Ripe but not sweet. OUTSTANDING. If this ever takes on the aromatic profile of the lightish 2007 Morgon VV (which reminded me of Grand cru Vosne Romanee) it would be my idea of a PERFECT wine.
This was tasted alongside Bouland’s Morgon “Corcelettes”— a felicitious pairing since both were excellent and a cut above all the other wines tasted so far (4/25/11)
Ch. THIVIN ($24)
Cotes de Brouilly 92-94
First night it was hard to assess but clearly marked with “character”. Second day it blossomed into a very stylish wine. Mozart to Lapalu’s Brahmsian approach ( his CdB) to the vintage. Broadly flavored with touch of tannin , feathery light finish with potential to gather power. Among the top 3 or 4 wines of the vintage for me, at least so far (4/25/11). Not in the category of SLEEPER since I expected nothing less from this producer.
Karim VIONNET: ($15)
B. Villages.BRAVO (says it all). On 2 occasions it was excellent showing northern rhone-like finesse. Sleek, slightly meaty and completely composed. And, it lasted 24 hours without losing its main character. It is at a quality level of a fine cru. Keep 2-3 years.
As an aside , other village-level wines by other producers are also impressive. But, at prices barely less than than those of cru BOJO's , I did not taste them as extensively nor take detailed notes on those that I tasted. But I will mention that DUPEUBLE also has a wonderful BOJO --more lush and soft and quite different from the Vionnet. It is equally excellent. Chermette (Dom du VISSOUX) also made an impressive Beaujolais Villages with excellent acidity and a rich, lush palate, that was incredibly sumptuous. The non-cru wines from Vionnet, Dupeuble and Chermette are all in a class of their own---all painfully delicious. POTEL-AVIRON a few steps behind in enjoyability while DUBOST also made a decent, if somewhat austere, village-level wine. Jadot, inexplicably made a villages that is best described as water of gamay--thats how dilute it was. Even @ 13% alcohol!! Perfect if you had drink wine when the temperature outside was over 100 oF.
CHERMETTE--- Dom du VISSOUX ($29)
Fleurie Les Garants 90-91
Pure but slightly linear–partly because it has marked acidity now . Components not knit and in flux. Abundance of fruit and savor, but there is a sense that this is at an awkward stage to fully enjoy now. Need to retaste this again since it was not retasted the next day . May be better than I think , particularly since Chermette's Fleurie "PONCIE" was delicious only the second day.
Fleurie Les Garants 90-91
Pure but slightly linear–partly because it has marked acidity now . Components not knit and in flux. Abundance of fruit and savor, but there is a sense that this is at an awkward stage to fully enjoy now. Need to retaste this again since it was not retasted the next day . May be better than I think , particularly since Chermette's Fleurie "PONCIE" was delicious only the second day.
CHERMETTE--- Dom du VISSOUX ($23)
Fleurie Poncie 89-91Purple; Quite gamay on the nose ; ebullient and fun nose that highlights wild strawberries and a bouquet of flowers. Fruity and somewhat dull on entry with a fullish mid-palate that has moderate flavor interest . Could not see what the fuss was about, as this wine had garnered very favorable press. It was good but not that good.
All that changed the next day as I consumed the remainder. Now, it was fully stretched out and the wine oozed sophistication . Rich, silky and long. Excellent balance . It is hard to not guzzle this wine when it is like this.
Upcoming Reviews include “ Red Bordeaux 1981 : 30 Years On" and "2008 Oregon Pinot Noirs: The Future is Now?"
